Oktoberfest!

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Need I say more…?

I went to Oktoberfest! The real one in Munich!

I cannot describe how amazing it was to actually get a table on the first day! The energy was crazy. Waiters are carrying 12 liters of beer down the aisles. There’s a brass band in the middle of the tent, and people are all standing on the benches in lederhosen and dirndls.

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Biggest darn tent I’ve ever seen…

I was there with two friends who had never been either, so it was great to see their reactions. We found a table full of Swiss men in their twenties. With lederhosen, of course.

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Japan Debrief

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Learning Japanese is like being eaten by Godzilla…

Learning Japanese was a shock after speaking Italian. Italian was almost effortless. In Italy, I could just throw out a Spanish word with an Italian accent and be understood. Knowing French and Spanish really gave me a huge head start.

By comparison, I started Japanese with nothing. Nada. Zero. I had to memorize alphabets – three of them. I had to conjugate adjectives (that’s a new one). And I had to re-arrange my thinking so that the verb always came out last.

What follows is an assessment of:

  • My level
  • What worked
  • What I would change

My Level

I did not reach taxi-ride-to-the-airport level like I did in Italian. More like order-from-starbucks. Besides ordering food I’m pretty decent at asking about traveling on trains and subways. I can also write about what I did each day – what I ate, where I went, how long I studied, and who I met with.

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“Your Way Isn’t The Another”

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It’s a big green grapefruit drink monster!

One of the enjoyable aspects of living in Japan has been the signs. I loved seeing the street-sign art in Italy; little easter eggs everywhere. While that kind of graffiti won’t be tolerated in Japan, their un-altered signs have been have been helpful, amusing, and sometimes just weird.

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I’ll take the Egg Slut Plate.

Helpful

Wow – there’s English pretty much everywhere. Especially airports, train stations, Starbucks. Moving to Japan is really not enough to guarantee that you’ll learn Japanese. (The signs are also in Chinese, Korean, and universal pictures.)

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How I Learned to Love Routines

Routines suck. They’re dull and boring. Who wants the same, old same-old? Well, I do.

Leaving my job and moving to Italy, Japan and Germany was great. I was freed from the boring old routines! No going to work at the same time every day. No more driving the same commute! No eating at the same place for lunch. No going to the gym every afternoon. No gym membership at all! No more shopping at the same Whole Foods grocery store. Everything is new and wonderful and shiny.

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Uber Shiny!

Except, a lot of those things were useful and even healthy. Without them, I was starting over.

Here’s what I learned about routines.

  • Routines lead to success!
  • Routines are efficient
  • But you need breaks

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A Taste of Korea

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Early view of Seoul

Last weekend I went to Seoul, in the Republic of Korea. A whole weekend! Now I’m an expert on all things Korean.

The Won is the Korean currency (“wahn”). What do you call a bunch of Won? A Won-ton! (Now I’m hungry.)

There’s about 1,000 Won to the dollar. Just think of the comma as a decimal point. Try not to get nervous when you pull 100,000 Won from the ATM.

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Where’s the comma?!

They should drop 3 zeros and reprint their currency. (Japan needs to drop 2 zeros from theirs. <hold breath>)

Friday afternoon we wandered around Itaewon (pronounced eat-taiwan, which seems like cross-marketing. And makes me hungrier.) We found a hamburger place run by Americans. We had Guinness at an Aussie bar. And then we struck gold. Pancake Hotdog Sale. Yep, bratwursts with a pancake for a bun and yummy asian sauces drizzled over them.

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Japanese From Nothing

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How my progress in Japanese feels.

I recently realized what a spoiled brat I am. A couple times a week I gripe about how Japanese “doesn’t make sense”. Finally I realized why. Apart from Spanish, it’s the first language I’ve had to learn from nothing.

(I make a conscious effort not to whine and moan, because I know it won’t help me learn. Also, I’m incredibly fortunate just to be living in Japan, not to mention having the freedom to study the language. And eat sushi.)

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All your sushi are belong to me.

Thinking about it reminded me that lots of people are starting with their first foreign language and starting from zero. So here are some experiences you may be going through, and some tools you can use to ease the load.

My first Spanish course was 30 years ago. Since then, I’ve studied French and Italian, and a little bit of Portuguese and German. All of these overlap significantly with either Spanish or English. Not so for Japanese.

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Do subtitles count as overlap?

Learning Japanese is requiring me to double-down on language-learning techniques like the following:

  • Association
  • Just in time vocabulary
  • Muscle memory

Association – Or what does this remind me of?

With my first second language, I had to build all my Spanish associations through repeated exposure. After that, French was easy to associate with Spanish. Italian associated easily with French, and sometimes with Spanish.

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I’m starting over there: square one

Japanese associates with nothing, so I’m back to square one. Except I know new memory tricks now. For example, I learned the Japanese Hiragana characters by thinking of them as pictures. む is “mu”. I first associated it to a bull sticking out it’s tongue making a “moo” sound. (Complete with a dab of slobber.) き is “ki” and looks like a “key” to a door. さ is “sa” and looks like a primitive handsaw (albeit with only one tooth).

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My goal is to read the messages on my Starbucks cup. “Yankee…go…home…” What?! (Or maybe it’s “thank you”)

Japanese is fun/frustrating because there are more layers of association required. Spanish uses nearly the same alphabet and punctuation as English. You can learn the vocabulary and grammar using an alphabet you already know how to pronounce.

With Japanese, I get to learn to associate the following:

  • English words to Japanese word sounds (like “hone” for book)
  • Japanese sounds to the Japanese phonetic alphabets (“hone” is ほん, or ho+n)
  • Japanese sounds to Japanese hieroglyphs (“hone” is 本)

I’m getting more confident in the Japanese phonetic alphabet, so I’m starting to update my flashcards to skip step 1. Instead of book = hone, I now have book = ほん. I’m looking forward to the day when I can update them to book = 本 and still know how to pronounce it.

Just in Time Vocabulary

This is possibly the coolest brain idea ever! You know how your brain sweeps out any information that’s just sitting around collecting dust? This is why we can never remember an actor’s name unless we talk about them all the time. Our brains may be the best neat-freaks ever.

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And then there’s _my_ desk…

Some brain scientists measured how long your brain is willing to something stay around if you don’t use it. Every time you review something, you get a longer period until the next cleaning. At first it’s about 10 minutes. If you review a vocabulary word within 10 minutes, you buy yourself a day. If you look at it before time is up, you get two more days, etc. This means you don’t have to look at all 500 words every day. Instead you space out your reviews, which is called spaced repetition.

The best part is that there is now an App for that! It’s called Anki SRS, and I use it every day. I’m still doing Italian vocabulary review for about twenty minutes per day. I also made all my Japanese cards with the answers in Italian, so I get two for one!

Muscle Memory

Learning a language often seems very academic. You take an Italian class. You have Japanese homework. You’re studying German.

My biggest revelation on this trip is that languages are not academic subjects. They’re sports.

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And I’m terrible at sports. But really good at folding goldfish…

Your goal is to speak the language. That means you have to build the neural connections that get a sentence from your head to your mouth. And it has to happen without you thinking about every stage of the process. (What’s that word? Arg, which ending do I use? Where’s the emphasis? How do I make that choking sound?!) You have to create muscle memory.

This has a couple practical implications for my studies. For one thing, I go up to strangers and ask beginner questions like “What time is it? Where does this train go? How do I get to [blank]?” This is just like a drill in any other sport.

Second, I schedule practice sessions with language tutors. For three days in a row I’ll have the same conversation with different teachers. Or better yet, let’s call them coaches.

Benny Lewis sums up this approach on his blog as Speak From Day 1. Pretty much every article he writes includes a reminder to put the language into practice every day. Make that your goal and the ripple effects are amazing!

So I’m not going to get as far with Japanese as I did with Italian. And I’ll probably keep changing my mind on whether I want to learn the Kanji hieroglyphs, or just focus on speaking. But that’s OK. I’ve learned a ton of Japanese words. I’m able to pretend I’m fluent for about five minutes. And I even recognize a few Japanese words when I watch Fairy Tail.

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Searching for rabbits? That will come in handy in conversation.

Silly-Billy Language – Japanese

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Gratuitous Hello Kitty

I recently watched Eddie Izzard’s hilarious take on Latin being a silly-billy language. “It has a nominative, a vocative, an accusative, a genitive, a dative and an ablative…. Quad the f—k?”  As I spend this year learning new languages I’ve noticed that Latin is not alone. There’s lots of silly languages. Since I’m in Japan right now, we’ll start with Japanese. After all:

  • It’s really five different languages
  • With ten different words for every number
  • And squiggly pictures instead of an alphabet

First some caveats, since I know this post will go microbial or viral or whatever. My intent is to amuse, not offend. Japanese is no sillier than any other language. I don’t discourage anyone from learning it. The quirks are what makes it fun. I’m having a great time living in Japan, speaking in Japanese, meeting wonderful people, and eating all your sushi.

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Whine

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OK readers, switch on Pandora radio and find some pouty, minor-chord tunes. Break out the cheeseboards and stemless glassware. It’s time for a full-on whine session.

What do I have to whine about on this trip-of-a-lifetime?

(Besides the fact I can’t get Pandora. And don’t even mention Netflix.)

Well, here are the top 4.

  • Japanese is hard
  • Everything I do is wrong
  • I can’t read menus
  • Moving is a pain

Japanese is hard

There. I admit it. For today only, I’m going to say it’s hard. Difficult. Frustrating. Dizzying, confusing, confounding. It’s really just the verbs and the nouns. And the adjectives. And the prepositions. So basically just everything.

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A Day in the Life

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Next to the very handsome guy is a clock made from tiny water fountains. Every minute the little fountains change to show the new time. That’s technology!

Here’s what my life is like in Japan.

The morning started with a Skype call with my niece. It’s 8:30am on Tuesday my time. 6:30 pm Monday hers. We practiced speaking in Japanese and then made plans for her upcoming trip to Japan. I don’t know which is cooler – that she wants to learn Japanese, or that she’s scratching an item off her bucket list before she finished high school.

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Debrief of the Italy Mission

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That title sounds so spy-like. Debrief of the Italy Mission. I bet debriefings are incredibly boring – listening to someone drone on about all the mundane details of hours stuck in the surveillance van with bad takeout food and…wait, do my blog posts sound like that?

Here are the results of three months in Italy in a surveillance van

  1. I can impress a taxi driver
  2. I wish I’d started school earlier
  3. I slacked off
  4. I earned an art history degree

Impressing a taxi driver

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I chalk up taxi fares to the “language practice” budget.

Everyone knows that the best judge of language level is a taxi driver. And I passed with flying colors. He couldn’t believe I’d only been studying for two months. We talked about my year of travel, the Italian economy, and how to learn a language. I sounded confident, my accent was good, and most of the words came naturally.

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